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> have a set of
> books where I do just that for about 30 diagrams. In that
> case, I do just as
> Sam describes...fold the oversize. For those books, they
> don't stick out as
> I've manually noticed the extended part of the page so when
> folded over, the
> notch nestles over the binder rings. (I know, a little anal,
> but it's my
> work)
When I had to insert several 11 x 17 pages into an otherwise
8.5 x 11 book, I made the *first* fold of the big pages a
"valley" fold at the middle (8.5-inch) of the sheet. That is,
the rightmost (unbound) edge of the big sheet came up toward
my face, and then down to touch the spine/rings, and line up
with the bound edge. Then I made a second valley fold, to bring
the unbound edge of the big sheet back out near the outer (right,
unbound) edge of the book. However, I did not bring
it far enough to neatly match that edge. Instead, I let the
unbound edge of the big sheet fall just shy of the book edge.
When you opened to that page, you could easily get a fingernail
under that edge and then pull (un-accordian) outward.
I did that for drawings that needed the full 11 x 17 sheet.
I also did it for 8.5 x 11 drawings that could then sit outside
the book proper, while the reader read any part of the book
and referred to the drawing. Same approach for some tables.
The single additional fold meant that there was no need to deal
with the binder rings. That worked for just a few big pages
in an otherwise 8.5 x 11 book.
In the one book that I did that had many, many such pages,
I staggered the folds so that the thickness was not all at
one side of the book. It was slightly less consistent, but
it made for an even, flat book, rather than one with a narrow
spine and a fat outer edge.
Many's the time that I wished FrameMaker had better handling
of the mixed page sizes.
Then we sold that part of the business, and I haven't had to
do big pages for two years. :-)
/kevin
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