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Subject:Re: BOOK DESIGN USING FRAMEMAKER 6.0 From:David Neeley <dbneeley -at- yahoo -dot- com> To:"TECHWR-L" <techwr-l -at- lists -dot- raycomm -dot- com> Date:Sat, 2 Nov 2002 14:48:39 -0800 (PST)
Greetings!
Since I get the digest, this is likely too late to
help. But, if you have this come up again...
One difference in formatting for perfect binding (or
various other types) vs. looseleaf is that the inside
margin changes from page to page. That's because
various sheets are folded together into smaller
sections, then these are stacked and glued together.
Thus, within each of these sections, the inside pages
have a particular margin, but the next pages are
folded over the first--and thus must have extra room
devoted to the task for the result to look the same.
As additional sheets are added to the stack, more
space is needed. This phenomenon is known as "margin
creep"--and is one thing your printer or pre-press
people will handle with special software.
However, remember the audience for your manual. Simply
shrinking down your present format may work, or it may
leave the type too small for your typical audience.
Also, you should beware of shrinking down any
photographs; these should generally be re-generated
for the smaller piece. Generally, you should plan on
making your original photographs at some even multiple
of the output printed resolution for sharpest results.
For example, if your manual will be printed at 133
lines per inch, an optimal resolution for your master
would be 266 lines per inch. Given that the finished
piece will presumably have smaller illustrations,
re-imaging these photos is likely a very good idea.
Of course, when you do this you should ascertain that
the illustrations, too, are clear at the smaller size.
Otherwise, adjusting the layout is in order.
Changing formats in this way need not be "rocket
science"--but you're quite lucky if it's as easy as
simply reducing the size by "shrinking" at the
printer's and still getting acceptable quality.
Best wishes,
David
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